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If OS X Yosemite came preinstalled on your new Mac, you’ll probably never need this article. In this article, you discover all you need to know to install or reinstall OS X, if you should have to.
If you’re thinking about reinstalling because something has gone wrong with your Mac, know that an OS X reinstallation should be your last resort. If nothing else fixes your Mac, reinstalling OS X could well be your final option before invasive surgery (that is, trundling your Mac to a repair shop).
You don’t want to reinstall OS X if something easier can correct the problem. So if you have to do a reinstallation, realize that this is more or less your last hope (this side of the dreaded screwdriver, anyway).
Reinstalling is a hassle because although you won’t lose the contents of your Home folder, applications you’ve installed, or the stuff in your Documents folder (unless something goes horribly wrong or you have to reformat your hard drive), you might lose the settings for some System Preferences, which means you’ll have to manually reconfigure those panes after you reinstall. And you might have to reinstall drivers for third-party hardware such as mice, keyboards, printers, tablets, and the like. Finally, you might have to reregister or reinstall some of your software.
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It’s not the end of the world, but it’s almost always inconvenient. That said, reinstalling OS X almost always corrects all but the most horrifying and malignant of problems. The process in Yosemite is (compared with root-canal work, income taxes, or previous versions of OS X) relatively painless.
How to install (or reinstall) OS X
In theory, you should have to install Yosemite only once, or never if your Mac came with Yosemite preinstalled. And in a perfect world, that would be the case. But you might find occasion to install, reinstall, or use it to upgrade, such as
If your Mac is currently running any version of OS X except Yosemite
If you have a catastrophic hard-drive crash that requires you to initialize (format) or replace your boot drive
If you buy an external hard drive and want it to be capable of being your Mac’s startup disk (that is, a bootable disk)
If you replace your internal hard drive with a larger, faster, or solid state drive
If any essential OS X files become damaged or corrupted or are deleted or renamed
The following instructions do triple duty: Of course they’re what you do to install OS X for the first time on a Mac or a freshly formatted hard or solid-state disk. But they’re also what you do if something really bad happens to the copy of OS X that you boot your Mac from, or if the version of OS X on your Mac is earlier than 10.10 Yosemite. In other words, these instructions describe the process for installing, reinstalling, or upgrading OS X Yosemite.
If you’ve never had Yosemite on this Mac, the first thing to do is visit the Mac App Store, download Yosemite, and install it. Once you’ve done that, here’s how to install, reinstall, or upgrade Yosemite, step by step:
Boot from your Recovery HD partition by restarting your Mac while holding down the Command+R keys.
The OS X Utilities window appears. Select Reinstall OS X, and click Continue. The OS X Yosemite splash screen appears. Click Continue.
A sheet appears informing you that your computer’s eligibility needs to be verified by Apple. Click Continue to begin the process of installing or reinstalling OS X.
If you’re not connected to the Internet, you’ll be asked to choose a Wi-Fi network from the AirPort menu in the top-right corner.
The Yosemite software license agreement screen appears. Read it and click Agree.
A sheet drops down, asking whether you agree to the terms of the license agreement. Yes, you did just click Agree; this time you’re being asked to confirm that you indeed clicked the Agree button.
If you don’t click Agree, you can’t go any farther.
Choose the disk on which you want to reinstall OS X by clicking its icon once in the pane where you select a disk.
If only one suitable disk is available, you won’t have to choose; it will be selected for you automatically.
Click the Install button.
A sheet asks for your Apple ID and password. Type them in the appropriate fields; click Sign In, and your Yosemite installation (or reinstallation) begins.
The operating system takes 30 to 60 minutes to install, so now might be a good time to take a coffee break. When the install is finished, your Mac restarts itself.
If you were reinstalling Yosemite on the hard disk that it was originally installed on, or upgrading from Mavericks, you’re done now. Your Mac will reboot, and in a few moments you can begin using your new, freshly installed (and ideally trouble-free) copy of OS X Yosemite.
If, on the other hand, you’re installing Yosemite on a hard disk for the first time, you still have one last step to complete. After your Mac reboots, the Setup Assistant window appears. You need to work your way through the Setup Assistant’s screens as described below.
Getting set up with the Setup Assistant
Assuming that your installation process goes well and your Mac restarts itself, the next thing you should see (and hear) is a short, colorful movie that ends by transforming into the first Setup Assistant screen (Apple Assistants such as this are like wizards in Windows, only smarter), fetchingly named Welcome.
To tiptoe through the Setup Assistant, follow these steps:
When the Welcome screen appears, choose your country from the list by clicking it once, and then click the Continue button.
If your country doesn’t appear in the list, select the Show All check box, which causes a bunch of additional countries to appear.
After you click Continue, the Select Your Keyboard screen appears.
Choose a keyboard layout from the list by clicking it once; then click Continue.
If you want to use a U.S. keyboard setup, click the U.S. listing. If you prefer a different country’s keyboard layout, select the Show All check box, and a bunch of additional countries’ keyboards (as well as a pair of Dvorak keyboard layouts) appear in the list. Choose the one you prefer by clicking it — and then click Continue.
The Select Your Wi-Fi Network screen appears.
Click the name of the wireless network you use to connect to the Internet, type in its password, and then click Continue.
If you don’t see the network you want to use, click Rescan. If you don’t use a wireless network, click Other Network Setup, and then choose one of the available options, or choose My Computer Does Not Connect to the Internet. Click Continue.
The Migration Assistant (also known as the Transfer Information to This Mac) screen appears.
Choose to transfer data, then click Continue, or choose not to transfer data, then click Continue.
If this is a brand-new Mac or you’re installing OS X Yosemite on a Mac and have another Mac or Time Machine backup disk nearby, you can transfer all of your important files and settings by following the onscreen instructions and connecting the new and old Macs via FireWire or Ethernet cable.
Transferring data can take hours — that’s the bad news.
The good news is that once the data transfer finishes, you’re finished, too. In other words, you can ignore the steps that follow (which are only for brand new installations with no data to transfer).
Goodbye and good luck.
Assuming you chose not to transfer data, the Sign In With Your Apple ID screen appears.
If you want to use your Apple ID with this Mac, type it (such as tcook@me.com) and your password in the appropriate fields, and then click Continue. Or, if you don’t have an Apple ID or prefer not to use one with this Mac, click Don’t Sign In, and then click Continue.
To learn more about getting an Apple ID, click the blue “Learn More” link. In a nutshell, it lets you make one-click purchases at the iTunes Store, iPhoto, or the Apple Store, and includes free iCloud membership.
The Allow iCloud to Use the Location of This Mac for Find My Mac sheet appears.
Click Allow or Not Now.
The Terms and Conditions screen appears.
Read the Terms and Conditions and click Agree. A dialog confirms your agreement. Click Agree again.
The Create A Computer Account screen appears.
Fill in the Full Name, Account Name (sometimes called Short Name), Password, Verify Password, and Hint fields, and then click Continue. Or, check the Use my iCloud Account to Log In checkbox. Then fill in the Account Name (sometimes called Short Name), and click Continue.
This first account that you create will automatically have administrator privileges for this Mac. You can’t easily delete or change the name you choose for this account, so think it through before you click Continue.
You can’t click the Continue button until you’ve filled in the first two fields. Because a password is optional, you can choose to leave both password fields blank if you like. If you do, your Mac warns you that without a password, your Mac won’t be secure. If that’s okay, click OK. If you change your mind and want to have a password, click Cancel.
Click on the little picture to the right of your name (it’s labeled “edit”) if you want to choose a different picture or take a picture of yourself with your Mac’s built-in camera.
If you choose to take a picture, click the Take Photo Snapshot button. When the picture appears, you can change its size by using the slider control directly below the image and/or move it around in the frame by clicking your face and dragging. If you’re not happy with this snapshot, click Retake a Video Snapshot. When you’re happy with it, click Continue.
If you choose to select a picture from the Picture library, click the picture you want to represent you — the butterfly, dog, parrot, flower, or whatever — and then click Continue.
The iCloud Keychain screen appears.
Click Set Up iCloud Keychain or Set Up Later.
If you choose Set Up iCloud Keychain, a screen requesting your passcode appears. Type your four digit passcode, and click Continue.
If you’ve forgotten your passcode or don’t have one, click Forgot Code to reset iCloud Keychain.
In either case, a verification code is sent to your iPhone or other Apple device; type it in, and click Continue.
The OS X Finder’s Desktop appears.
And that’s all there is to it. You’re done.
Today I’m going to show you how to break GNS3 out of your virtual world into the real world of the internet.
GNS3 is a great resource for anyone who needs access to live Cisco gear but doesn’t have the money to purchase the hardware. You can create complete network topologies in the isolated safety of the lab. You can configure Network Address Translation (NAT), setup a DMZ with a Cisco ASA and even configure DHCP servers to offer IP addresses to VirtualBox clients.
All of this takes place in an sandbox environment. In other words, there’s no way you can injure your real network because all the activity is confined to the lab. Most of the time this is exactly what you want but sometimes you may need to connect your virtual computer to the real world.
Wouldn’t it be nice if you could setup a PC such as Windows XP in VirtualBox? Then connect it to virtual switch which is connected to a virtual Cisco route? And finally configure IP routing in such a way that your Windows XP machine can actually surf the web through all that virtualized gear?
That’s what I’m going to show you how to do today.
There are a few elements we need to setup but if you follow me closely I’ll show you how to open the door to getting online. The best part is that none of the servers online will have any idea that your client machine is communicating with it from an entirely virtual environment.
The secret to getting online
I’m about to let you in on a little secret. The magic that allows your virtual machines to get online through your virtual equipment is based on a virtual adapter called TunTap.
Every client machine has one or more network adapters. For example, my Macbook Air has a Wireless LAN adapter (en0) that lets me associate with a wireless access point. But I also have a physical USB-to-Ethernet adapter. When I plug this little dongle into my USB port I can attach an Ethernet plug and then get on the wired network.
TunTap is a little peice of software that allows you have to have multiple logical adapters. You can assign IP addresses to these adapters and generally use them for testing. By default, the TunTap adapter can’t really do anything useful by itself. But I’m about t show you how we can bridge the TunTap adapter with our real wireless adapter so that we can have a virtual bridge to get online.
If all this sounds a little confusing now don’t worry – I’ll clarify as you read.
For now, let’s just start from the beginning and get TunTap.
Go to http://tuntaposx.sourceforge.net/ and download and install TunTap. After installing the package, open a Terminal Window (Command + Space type “terminal“)
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You should see a bunch of interfaces. If so, bingo you’re good to go.
By the way, you might wonder why you can’t just type:
and search for the interface there. The reason is because the tap interfaces won’t show up until you assign the interface in GNS3. Sounds weird I know which is why it can cause a lot of confusion.
We’re going to assign the GNS3 interface next.
Assigning the tap interface in GNS3
After installing GNS3, we need to run it as the root user so it can create the first tap interface, tap0. This requires root access therefore GNS3 must be running as root for it work.
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To run tap0 as root type:
Great, now drag out a new cloud from the devices list in the left pane, right click it and choose Configure.
Expand the cloud group in the left pane then choose the NIO TAP tab in the right pane.
Under TAP interfaces (require root access) type:
Click Add and then choose OK. By the way, if you don’t click Add it won’t work – I’ve made this mistake many times.
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Alright, now drag out a network device like an Ethernet Switch and then click the Add a link button in the bottom left corner of the GNS3 window to connect any port on your Switch to the nio_tap:/dev/tap0 interface of your cloud.
The act of connecting this link causes GNS3 to create logical tap0 interface on your Mac.
For example, if you type ifconfig now you’ll see a new tap0 interface hanging out at the bottom of your interface list.
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This is huge progress because it now means we can connect our Mac to GNS3.
Let me show you what I mean…
Assign an IP address to the tap0 interface:
Now drag out a GNS3 router and connect it to the Ethernet switch you created earlier.
Right click and Start the router and choose Idle-PC. We’re going to want a value with a checkmark next to it. This little step guarantees that the router won’t eat up all your CPU resources while it’s running.
Once you set the Idle-PC value, double click the router and press enter until you get to the R1# prompt.
We need to put the interface connected to the switch in the same subnet as the tap0 interface. You can check which interface to configure by expanding your R1 device in the topology summary pane. It’s located alone the right side of GNS3.
Here we go:
The top window in the graphic the result of assigning 10.0.0.2/24 to the tap0 interface on my Mac. And the bottom window shows the successful ping to 10.0.0.2 from my virtual router’s fa0/0 interface assigned to 10.0.0.1/24.
Great.
Now that we know tap0 works, we can bridge it to our real interface, which is en0 on my Mac.
Now we need to assign an IP address on your real network to the bridge interface. I find the easiest way to do this is to simply use DHCP. That way you’ll automatically get an unassigned IP address and there’s no need to worry about conflicting IPs on your real network.
Of course if that doesn’t work you can always manually assign a free IP address too.
Where each x represents each decimal value of your IP address and the y is the number of bits in your subnet mask.
You should now be able to ping your bridge0 ip address from R1.
The next step is setting up your default route on R1.
If you do a show ip route you’ll see there’s no default route. This means if R1 sees a packet destined for a network that it doesn’t have in its routing table it’ll simply discard it. But we don’t want that. By default, R1 should route any less specific routes to the internet out your default gateway through your bridge0 interface. So let’s change that.
Back on R1, type:
This says: “For any packet not in my routing table route it through my default gateway on my real live network at 192.168.0.1′
Now configure R1’s fa0/1 interface to have the IP address of the bridge id.
In the final step, you can configure NAT/PAT on R1 so that the internal network (10.0.0.0/24 in my example) get’s translated to your “global” address on the 192.168.0.0/24 subnet.
First you can create an access list for all the hosts insides your network. Let’s say all your hosts inside the GNS3 network are on the 10.0.0.0/24 subnet you would type the following on R1:
This just sets up the rule to match all the hosts on your internal network.
Then go to your inside interface and type:
Then go to your external interface and type
Now setup the translation rule:
That should do the trick.
Alternatively, another way to get your router out to the internet is to:
- Disable your Wi-Fi adapter
- Plug in the Mac to the network using your Ethernet adapter
- Type ifconfig to get your adapter name: en0, en1 etc…
- Launch GNS3 as root, create a cloud and under the settings for that cloud in the NIO Ethernet tab, choose your Ethernet adapter from the drop down list
- Connect R1 to the cloud using the Add a link tool
- Make the interface connecting R1 to the cloud get an IP from DHCP.
- config t
- int fa0/0
- ip address dhcp
- do ip domain-lookup
- end
This will force the router to get an IP address from the cloud and should let you get out.
I hope this helps. I know this tutorial was a little sloppy and might seem confusing. If so, just leave a comment or shoot me and email and I can help you with the finer details.